FEEDING THE FAITHFUL
By Mike Alexander
In the Quercy region of France a small river called l’Alzou has carved a deep valley through the limestone plateau. For nearly one thousand years people have walked through this steep sided passageway as they headed toward Santiago in northern Spain on what is one of the most famous pilgrim routes in the world, the Saint Jaques de Compostelle. On the cliffs above the valley stands the magnificent monastery of Rocamadour that too was a point of pilgrimage and a refuge. Here the religious could rest and seek food and medical assistance before continuing their journeys.
During medieval times it is estimated that one in five of the population would be on pilgrimage or serving the pilgrim industry at any one time. Cottage industries sprang up all along the pilgrim routes to profit from supplying the needs of weary travelers. Come the reformation and the Black Plague and many of these businesses died through want of clientele. All along L’Alzou ruined flour mills stand as testimony to the passing of this era.
This is rugged, rocky country with thin soil that will never be good for supporting large animals such as cattle. Goats have always thrived here however and during the Golden Age of pilgrimage, between the 11th and 16th centuries, the locals of this region took to making small wheel shaped cheeses called cabacou. Where many of the other foodstuffs became redundant with the demise of pilgrimage, cabacou has lived on and transformed itself into one of the more famous products of the Quercy region.
I visited one of the most renowned producers of Rocamadour cheese, as it is now known, at his farm at the foot of the small chateau of Mordesson. Michel Alibert has been making cheese here since 1989. In 1996 he was one of the farmers instrumental in gaining the famous Appellation d’Origine Controlle or AOC for cabacou cheese under the name of Rocamadour. The AOC is a strict system of controls placed on the finest of French wines and food products by which they protect and market their produce. In terms of Rocamadour cheese it requires producers carrying the AOC to adhere to codes as regards taste, production, size and food sourcing so that a high quality, uniform product can be achieved. This enables producers to protect themselves from imitation and gives them co-operative marketing strength.
When I asked Michel how many medals he had won for his Rocamadour he brushed the question aside, preferring to talk of other things. I let the subject drop but I had already done my research and knew that the Rocamdour of Mordesson held more than twenty medals for its quality. Although modest about his awards Michel was more than happy to show me around his farm and the super hygienic production facilities which are regularly inspected under AOC terms. On average he has three hundred and thirty goats each producing up to 2.5 liters of milk per day enabling him to make 800 000 cheeses per year. Such is the local demand for this cheese that most of it never leaves the region let alone France.
Today Rocamadour is a thriving tourist attraction, the second most visited site in France and a UNESCO world heritage site. Since the 1980’s the pilgrim travel has started to pick up again, quadrupling in just twenty years as Christians and other seekers from around the world once again begin a quest for greater spiritual development. Visit any of the many local restaurants and you are sure to find the cheese named after this famous historical site appearing on the menu. It is frequently offered with salad but is also combined with other local produce in any number of delicious recipes. I have included one of my favorites below. If you are unable to get your hands on the much sought after Rocamadour itself then try this recipe using a creamy but strong goats’ cheese.
Croustade de Chevre starter:
For two persons
1 sheet of puff pastry
1 egg yolk
2 Rocamadour or 70 grams strong creamy goats cheese 4 walnuts/chopped
2 Tablespoons honey
Black pepper
Cut out 4×15 cm diameter disks of pastry. Place 2 disks on a non stick tray and lay half the cheese or a Rocamadour on each. Place half the walnuts on each portion and pour 1 soup spoon of honey on top. Crack some black pepper over each. Wet the edge of the disks lightly, cover with remaining disk, then seal by pinching the edges. Brush tops with egg yolk. Cook in an oven pre heated to 200°c till golden brown.